Category: Travel

Hailman’s ‘Foreign Missions’ is a fast-paced world tour through eyes of a federal prosecutor

By Charlie Spillers. Special to the Clarion-Ledger Sunday print edition (August 4)

Early in Foreign Missions of an American Prosecutor, author John Hailman refers to himself as an “old traveler looking back on his life.” He then takes readers along on a fascinating and incredible journey.

Hailman’s fifth book gives us a world filled with adventures, romances, and intrigue he experienced during a lifetime of international travels, beginning as a university student living in France. Traveling the world later as a representative for the U.S. Justice Department, Hailman encountered criminals and conspiracies, including a plot in Ossetia, Georgia, to hijack his helicopter and kidnap him. He brings these adventures to life in this engaging and exciting book.

In 1991, the Justice Department established its own Foreign Service, a unit named Office of Overseas Prosecutorial Development and Training, known by its acronym, OPDAT, and Mississippi’s John Hailman became its top diplomat.

It’s easy to understand why he was selected for a leading international role. The U.S. Ambassador in Tunisa said it best in a letter commending Hailman: “With his excellent language skills, vast experience, and personal charm and candor, Mr. Hailman has been warmly and respectfully welcomed into Tunisian circles.” With those attributes he was well-received throughout his foreign missions. Hailman was also a skilled lawyer with a brilliant legal mind and a diplomat’s fine tact, which made him effective in promoting the rule of law. These were important missions that could influence a nation’s legal system.

Worldly and sophisticated, fluent in French, and a nationally recognized wine expert, Hailman is also a skilled writer. This passage from a mission to Switzerland is a prime example of the author’s incomparable experiences and vivid descriptions:

My own two weeks in Switzerland were probably most memorable for the several days I spent in their deliberately simple, primitive mountain dwellings in the Alps in January with Inspector Billant and his detectives, where the only heat was from wood-burning fireplaces and where we drank fine, clear, icy water from snow-melt. Those were . . . rustic retreats where we had simple but magnificent meals from local sheep, goats, and cattle: dried beef with white gravy, pots of delicious cheese fondue, and raclette with bright nights deep in the snow of the Alps.

Raclette is a national Swiss dish consisting of cheese melted over a fire and then scraped onto bread or boiled potatoes. Reading the passage, one can almost feel the chilled air, see the beautiful mountains, and taste the hearty dishes.

This book is actually a memoir in two parts, with the second describing his international missions. The first part details Hailman’s adventures and romances as a young man studying in Paris, living with a French model, visiting London with a beautiful Parsee, his colorful exploits in Algeria, tending bar on the island of Mallorca and the Greek islands, and working for Air France to entertain clients in exotic locales. It’s a life most could only dream about.

Hailman’s fluency in French was an essential element of his early and later success. As a young man he lived in Paris for two years studying at the Sorbonne. His studies may have suffered, however, because during that time he became a gigolo to wealthy Parisian women. That may have been early training in diplomacy and delicate international relations. Fortunately, he continued to pursue international relations on a different level for the Justice Department.

And happily for readers he recounts an amazing life in this well-written and captivating memoir.

Charlie Spillers is the bestselling author of Confessions of An Undercover Agent: Adventures, Close Calls and the Toll of a Double Life. and Whirlwind: A Frank Marsh Novel. His next book, Flashpoint: A Frank Marsh Novel, will be released soon. He’ll moderate the panel “Crime and the Law” at the Mississippi Book Festival.

John Hailman will appear at the Mississippi Book Festival August 17 as a participant in the “Crime and the Law” panel at 4:00 p.m. at the State Capitol Room 201 H.

Rachel Cobb’s ‘Mistral’ depicts photographer’s unyielding chase to catch the uncatchable

By Ellen Rodgers. Special to the Clarion-Ledger Sunday print edition (January 13)

It is immediately evident upon viewing Mistral by Rachel Cobb the amount of passion and doggedness it would require to chase something that is unseen. The wind, for all intents and purposes is invisible. What we really see when viewing the wind is the effects it has on an area.

The Mistral is the wind that plagues Provence, as southern California is plagued by the Santa Ana winds. Over centuries of living in the region, the natives of Provence have learned ways to account for the strong and sudden wind.

Mrs. Cobb started documenting the Mistral in the late 1990s. She began it in a local library in Provence pouring through old books looking for anything about the wind. Over the years, between her assignments with various newspapers and magazines she would travel back to make photos of the wind.

Eventually, she realized she needed to be immersed in the area to make any headway on this project. She, her husband, and their young son moved overseas to Provence. Cobb eludes to the length of time spent on this project, “I started this story using Kodachrome film and digging through a small-town library, and I have finished it using a digital camera and the Internet”.

Cobb’s photographs depict the way people prepare for these sudden and strong gusts of wind, which have been recorded to last up to 65 hours. 2-kilogram weights hold a door open; stones are placed on top of the tile shingles; upside down glasses weigh down tablecloths; paperweights, and plastic clips hold a table edge; cement rings placed on the bottom of wheeled gift card racks keep them from rolling away; the eaves of houses show the multiple layers of roof tiles sometimes number up to four; and the north side of buildings are without windows. That’s the windward side.

Images of fauna show how the wildlife of the region prepares for and copes with the mistral. A horse squints its eyes as a strong wind blows its mane. Spiders position their webs so they are less exposed to the wind, while other spiders will weave a smaller web.

In one photograph, taken on the top of Mont Ventoux, which is said to be one of the windiest places on Earth, a hiker in snow gear is on his heels and appears to be sitting in an invisible chair. The chair is the enormous force of wind that can support his entire weight.

Perhaps nothing is more affected by this natural phenomenon than the inhabitants of this region, people and plant life alike. A young girl holds her skirt down in the wind, whilst descending a set of stone stairs, which show the wear of years and countless foot treads. Cobb’s own son is shown with his arms spread wide to the mistral and leaning into it. Again, her young son has his eyes shielded outdoors from what one can only imagine is the dust. Cherries are bruised on one side where the wind has battered them for too long, thus ruining the crop. The edges of a flower’s petals are ragged and feathered from enduring the relentless wind.

All of these photographs make it a little easier for the viewer to envision what it would be like to live with such a presence nearly two hundred days out of every year.

These photographs are pure and transcendent, employing none of the current and banal trends in photography.

The word mistral means “masterly”. Cobb showcases her enormous talent in this book illustrating the masterful wind of Provence.

Ellen Rodgers, who worked at Lemuria Bookstore for twelve years, is a photographer born and raised in the Mississippi Delta. She exhibits work that focuses on the region, and Vice chose her photographs to represent Mississippi in the 50 States of Art project.

Signed copies of Mistral are available at our online store.

Author Q & A with Rachel Cobb

Interview by Jana Hoops. Special to the Clarion-Ledger Sunday print edition (October 28)

Award-winning New York-based photographer Rachel Cobb has spent years–decades, actually-chasing the wind.

And although such a pursuit would generally be considered fruitless for the rest of us, Cobb has defied conventional wisdom–she has captured the wind. What she has found, through the lens of her camera, is that this invisible force of nature is, at times, playful. Awe-inspiring. Destructive. Refreshing. Frightening. And utterly beautiful.

Cobb’s new book, Mistral: The Legendary Wind of Provence, is a photographic story of the relentless mistral, or strong wind, that evidence shows has likely blown through Provence, France, since before recorded time. Its impact on the area’s culture, architecture, agriculture, and social norms is revealed through stunning images of everyday life in the area.

What she discovered is that this phenomenon is clearly visible in the form of “a leaf caught in flight, a bride tangled in her veil, spider webs oriented to withstand the gusts,” to new a few revealing signs. Accompanying these visuals are excerpts from writings by Paul Auster, Lawrence Durrell, Jean Giono, Frédéric Mistral, Robert Louis Stevenson, and others, who attempt to make sense of the power of the mistral.

Rachel Cobb

Cobb has photographed current affairs, social issues, and features in the U.S. and abroad for more than two decades. Her work has appeared in The New York TimesThe New YorkerSports IllustratedTimeRolling StoneNatural HistoryStern, and Paris Match, among others. She has been recognized with Picture of the Year awards for her work during the 9/11 attacks in New York City and in war-torn Sarajevo; and a Marty Forscher Grant for Humanistic Photography.

Born and raised in Dallas, Cobb has lived in New York City since she graduated from Denison University in Ohio.

Please define mistral, and tell me what your book is about. How long did it take you to capture all of these images, start to finish?

The mistral is a cold, dry wind that blows down the Rhône River Valley through Provence and empties into the Mediterranean. It can blow 200 days a year. It is fierce–relentless, even. It can turn a summer day into a chilly affair. My book is an attempt to capture the feeling of wind, to make my audience experience this invisible force of nature and to show what it means to live in a place where wind is so often present.

The first photograph I made for this series was in 1998 on medium format transparency film using a 1959 Rolleiflex twin lens camera. I’d first imagined this series as a square-format, moody, black-and-white story of people enduring the wind, maybe inside while the wind beat against their houses.

Obviously, that idea had to go. Who would have understood it? Besides, color is essential to seeing the mistral. It clears the sky and turn sit brilliant blue. And red–locals say a red sky at night indicates a mistral will follow. My first image was of a vibrant red sky at night, and if you look carefully, you can see the trees already beginning to stir. The last image was made in September 2017. But is any photographer ever really finished with a project like this? It’s now such a part of me to look for and respond to wind, I can’t help but take photos.

Tell me how you came to know about the mistral that you have written about and photographed in this book. What was it about this wind phenomenon that heightened your interest so intently? 

I’d been going to this region of France since I was a teenager. Anybody who spends any amount of time in Provence is well acquainted with its most famous wind. You simply can’t escape it. And people talk about it endlessly. They predict, they complain, they repeat old adages about how long it will last, how strong it will be.

It occurred to me that the mistral is an essential part of Provençal life, and in fact, it defines many aspects of life there. The plants and trees bend to the wind. Farmers both try to control it by planting rows of trees tightly together to protect their crops, and they also make use of it, for example, when they tie plastic strips to their cherry trees. The plastic flaps in the wind and scares away birds. Houses and other buildings are built with the wind in mind, not the sun. Entrances are always on the southern, sheltered side. On the windward side, there are few or no windows. Even spiders build their webs to reduce the brunt of the wind. The mistral is the story of this place.

How hard does the mistral in Provence generally blow?

I used to carry an anemometer while I was working so that I could record exactly how hard the wind was blowing. The Beaufort Scale of Wind Force breaks down wind speed into a scale of 1 to 12, and it describes wind’s effects on sea and on land. During a strong mistral, gusts can reach 12 on the scale–that’s greater than 73 miles per hour–which is the start of hurricane strength. A more common sustained mistral might blow at 35-50 miles per hour.

Which photos did you find most challenging to capture?

I have a background in newspaper photography, which was wonderful training for working quickly, but this project really challenged me. I had to be there when the wind blew, and I also had to find ways of showing wind’s effect on things without repeating myself too much. It took longer than any story I’ve ever done. It took me 10 years to get the images of the wind-blown snow atop Mont Ventoux. Conditions have to be just right. There’s a snowfall on the mountain, then slightly warmer weather softens the snow, then wind blows and freezes the snow as it’s blowing.

I would follow the weather in Provence from New York, and when I would see there was a mistral, I would call people who worked on the mountain to see if the conditions were right, if there would be these strange snow formations. I walked up the mountain a couple of times before I got the photos I wanted.

The day I made the photos in the book, I recorded the wind at about 62 miles per hour on the mountain top. I would take off my gloves just long enough to make a frame or two, then I’d have to warm them and my cameras under my coats.

You state int he book that the people who live along the mistral’s path in Provence have a “complicated relationship” with the wind. In what ways?

Order and tradition are an important part of life in France. Farmers tidy their fields. People don’t leave the house disheveled. They’re more buttoned up than Americans. There are generally accepted rules of behavior that can be confining. Along comes the mistral. It’s a nuisance that slams car doors, loosens gutters, and upturns plants. Imagine you’re a waiter carrying a tray of glasses at an outdoor restaurant during a mistral. Things happen. Ten glasses go crashing to the ground, well… [French shrug]. The mistral happens. Chaos happens. It’s liberating.

Tell me about the writings in this book–how you chose them.

Many writers over the years have been moved to write about the mistral, and I felt their words would enhance my images. Of course, I wanted to include the work of the great French writers and poets like Frédéric Mistral, Alfonse Daudet, and Jean Giono, who were from the region. I found it surprising that so many foreigners have been charmed by and in awe of the mistral, from Paul Auster to George Sand to Robert Louis Stevenson.

What did you start out wanting to accomplish through this book, and did it change any as your work progressed?

A long project like this reveals itself slowly. I always thought the mistral could be a lens through which I could observe and describe Provence, but, in doing the work, I saw the mistral is essentially the spirit of the place.

Rachel Cobb will be at Lemuria on Monday, October 29, at 5:00 p.m. to sign and discuss Mistral: The Legendary Wind of Provence.

Francophile Friday: French Travel

By Annerin Long

Next week is spring break for area schools and many people will be taking to the air and roads for vacation. If you find yourself at home but in need of an escape, Alliance Française de Jackson members suggest a virtual trip to France to celebrate le mois de la Francophonie.

year in provencePeter Mayle’s A Year in Provence is a classic for Francophiles, with the author sharing the adventures of following a dream to move to southern France. Mayle and his wife soon find that Provence is not always the sunny land they had imagined, and with understated wit, he tells of the trials of not only restoring the 200-year-old farmhouse they have purchased, but also of learning the ways of this new home they have chosen. Mayle—who died earlier this year—followed this book with others about his time in France: Toujours Provence; Encore Provence: New Adventures in the South of France; and French Lessons: Adventures with Knife, Fork, and Corkscrew among them. He also ventured into fiction with some light mysteries set in Provence, which could make for perfect beach-time reading. For a more recent take on foreigners making France their home, chef and food blogger David Lebovitz wrote about his experience renovating his Paris apartment in l’appart.

paris inspiring tourParis: An Inspiring Tour of the City’s Creative Heart by Janelle McCulloch takes travelers on a tour of the French capital’s arrondissements through history and a selection of the best places to visit in each of the unique neighborhoods. This book isn’t a turn-by-turn travel guide as much as a source of inspiration for a trip to Paris and is for the armchair traveler as much as for those headed to Paris, with beautiful photography that captures the spirit of the city. For those venturing further than Paris, McCulloch has also written Provence and the Côte d’Azur: Discover the Spirit of the South of France.

paris in clorPhotographer Nichole Robertson used color to organize her coffee-table book Paris in Color, with a different color taking over each chapter: yellow, red, pink, blue, green . . . through Robertson’s eyes, you see the many colors that bring Paris to life. In her follow-up book, Paris in Love, Robertson focused only on reds using the journey of a day, morning to evening, to take readers through the city.

Two books that celebrate strolling the streets as can only be done in Paris are The Most Beautiful Walk in the World (John Baxter) and Flâneur (Federico Castigliano). If you are familiar with the city, these books will certainly bring back memories of your own wanderings through Paris.

To continue your armchair adventures and travel plans, you might also try these:

And if you are fortunate enough to be planning a trip to France, be sure to check out Lemuria’s selection for practical travel guides to help your planning!

Bon voyage!

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