By Martha Foose Hall. Special to the Clarion-Ledger Sunday print edition (December 16)
“If you are ever at a loss when planning a menu, just add a hushpuppy,” advises caterer, cookbook author, and culinary entrepreneur Elizabeth Heiskell in the recent revamp of the 1972 classic Southern Living Party Cookbook. This time around the tagline “A Modern Guide to Gathering” has been added along with favorite recipes from recent issues of Southern Living and Elizabeth’s hits from the party circuit she has traversed across the south and settled into in Oxford, Mississippi.
In five event themed chapters entitled: Teas, Coffees, and Receptions, Brunches and Luncheons, Come By For a Drink, Y’all, Cookouts, and Celebrations and Dinners, Elizabeth covers festivities ranging from casual get-togethers to elegant formal dinners. The book opens with her reminiscing about the grand hostesses in her family and owning up to some of her party foibles followed by a Hosting Handbook. This section lays out the basics for novice party throwers (and guests) and reminds seasoned hosts (and guests) of some of the simple niceties of entertaining such as invitation etiquette and proper place setting. The most helpful part of this guide may be the pages devoted to estimating quantities of food and beverages needed for different occasions which can be tricky even for experienced hosts.
Scattered throughout the book are helpful guides from the 70s edition such as how to carve a standing rib roast and how to set a tea tray. The reprinted Wine Selection Guide does seem a tad dated when looking at the choices of bottles available these days. The Champagne Primer, however, is more detailed and makes a handy reference, especially when following her encouragement to throw a soiree with, “nothing but fried chicken and free-flowing Champagne.”
The chapters present recipes in menu formats with tips on how to get everything done without stressing out. Elizabeth and the talented team from Southern Living dispense guidance on setting up a buffet and everything surrounding a party from flower arranging to selecting glassware to stain removal. There is even instruction of how to make gilded Easter eggs to use as place cards. Entertaining types will no doubt pick up some decor and table design ideas from the lovely vignettes in the colorful photographs.
Crepes St. Jacque, filled with Chablis cream sauce, scallops, and lump crab meat was a dish poised for a comeback. This imposing sounding dish is one of over 60 recipes initially featured in the 1972 edition. Here the recipe is broken down into two sweeping steps, thereby reducing the intimidation factor. Elizabeth shares some astute counseling she received which was to be ready to pitch out the first couple of attempts in a batch of crepes to get the method down and reminds cooks to make extra crepes to stash in the freezer. Throughout the book, Elizabeth’s tone as a knowledgeable neighbor is sure to comfort harried hosts.
Another sage piece of advice precedes the Fried Pork Chop recipe featured in her Gospel Brunch menu which includes Hoppin’ John, Squash and Swiss Cheese Casserole, and Banana Pudding Pie. Elizabeth adroitly advises readers to master the technique of making pan gravy. It is a skill that will serve a home cook for a lifetime and because a good gravy can make all the difference in the world. Elizabeth’s chatty nature shines brightly in this book, and it seems she could not resist throwing in a “bless her heart” and a few “Honeys” here and there. It is the easy instruction, timeless recipes and encouraging manner that is sure to make this an enduring cookbook and a practical gift for newlyweds, budding hostesses, and folks that like to have a good time.
Martha Foose Hall is the author of Screen Doors & Sweet Tea: Recipes and Tales of a Southern Cook, the best-selling homage to Southern cooking, won the James Beard Award for American Cooking and The Southern Independent Booksellers Award. Her other titles include: A Southerly Course: Recipes & Stories from Close to Home; Oh Gussie! Cooking and Visiting in Kimberly’s Southern Kitchen and My Two Souths: Blending the Flavors of India into a Southern Kitchen with Asha Gomez. Martha makes her home in the Mississippi Delta with her husband and son.
Elizabeth Heiskell will appear at the Mississippi Book Festival August 17 as a participant in the “Southern Hospitality” cooking panel at 10:45 a.m. at the Galloway Fellowship Center.
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